Road Bicycles
Within the road discipline is a variety of race events, including road races, triathlons, criteriums, time trails and stage races. Most of these events use variations on the same type of bicycle, a road bike. Road bikes are lightweight and stiff. The geometry is aggressive and places the rider in an enhanced aerodynamic position, especially when riders are in the drops of drop bars. The tires are thin and narrow and inflated to high pressure, allowing lower rolling resistance. Each component of race road bike is selected for durability and, above all, light weight, helping to reduce the overall drag of the bike.

Specifically designed for time trials, but also used in triathlons, time trial bikes place riders in an extreme aerodynamic position, partly via frame geometry and partly via aerobars that stretch the rider out in front of the handlebars and on the front edge of the saddle. The tubes of a time trial bike are often configured flatter than those of a road bike to cut through the air. These bikes may also have a rear disc wheel, a solid wheel designed for maximum airflow and to reduce wind resistance. The lack of spokes can improve air flow. However, with a crosswind, the disc catches wind, decreasing performance.

Mountain Bicycles
Although all mountain bikes are designed for off-road events, the requirements of each event vary, making the bikes different. Mountain events include cross-country racing, downhill and slalom.

Cross-country race mountain bikes are first and foremost stiff and strong enough to withstand rough terrain. Components are as light as possible, yet durable. Depending on the terrain, the bikes may be hardtails--with just a front suspension fork-- or full suspension, with a suspension fork and rear shock. Tires are wide enough to grip the surface, yet not too wide to cause unwanted rolling resistance. Tires may be tubed or tubeless. Tubeless tires have an additional benefit because they can be pumped to lower pressures, allowing for more tire contact and thus traction.

Bicycles designed for downhill and slalom are heavier and more stout than cross-country bikes so that they can hold up to the rougher terrain. These bikes also have more travel in the suspension so the rider can negotiate over the more extreme terrain.

Cyclocross Bicycles
For cyclocross races, a cross between a road bike and mountain bike is used. This bike, a cyclocross bike, has geometry similar to a road bike, is light and stiff. The bottom surface of the top tube is flat so the bike can be easily hoisted and carried on the racer's shoulder when jumping over obstacles. Cross bikes typically have cantilever brakes, located higher on the frame to allow for mud clearance. There can be two sets of brake levers, on the flat top part of the handlebars and above the drops. A cyclocross bike handles well on tight courses, much like a mountain bike. In addition, the wheels are knobby, like a mountain bike's, yet thinner. The tires for cyclocross are typically inflated to pressures between a road and mountain bike's pressure, though some tubeless tires allow lower pressures for more surface contact.

Track Bicycles
Races performed on a track require a fixed-gear bike that is lightweight, aerodynamic and very stiff. Like other types of cycling races, there are different track events, though the same type of bike can be used. This type of bike, called a track bike, looks similar to a road bike. However, a track bike does not have brakes. It has only one gear. The pedals do not spin freely and are, instead, "fixed," in that they turn whenever the rear wheel spins. The wheels on a track bike are stiffer than most wheels. This feature transfers more power during sprinting. Tires are thin and narrow and inflated to high pressures for reduced rolling resistance.

Video By: LIVESTRONG.COM

Step 1
Hold the end of a measuring tape at the center point of the bottom bracket. Run the tape up the seat tube---the nearly vertical tube connecting the bottom bracket and the seat post. Check the length where the measuring tape meets the center of the joint of the seat tube and the top tube, which runs horizontally.

Step 2
Jot down this measurement, called the center-to-center frame or C-C size, in inches and convert it to centimeters by multiplying it by 2.54.

Step 3
Measure the seat tube a second time, this time measuring from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube for the center-to-top, or C-T size. Note this length, the center-to-top measurement, in inches and centimeters. Higher-end bicycles, such as custom or handmade ones, will rely more on this measurement. The C-T size is usually 1 cm to 1.5 cm longer than the C-C measurement.

Step 4
List your bicycle for sale noting its C-T size or C-C size, in inches or centimeters, depending on what the manufacturer typically uses in its product information pages.

Measuring an Inseam

Step 1
Stand against a wall with a book between your thighs, its spine against your crotch in the same manner a bike seat would be. Level the book spine horizontally.

Step 2
Direct a friend to mark the wall at the top of the spine. Measure the distance between the floor and the mark; this is your inseam length.

Step 3
Test-ride road bicycles measuring 67 percent of your inseam length in C-C length or 65 percent for C-T length, recommends Sierra Trading Post. Try a 20-inch or 51-cm frame in C-T measure, for example, if your inseam measures 29 1/2 to 30 inches. Ride a bicycle with a 23-inch or 60-cm frame if your inseam measures 34 inches.

Step 4
Stand over the top tube of the bicycle with your feet on the ground to check for 1 or 2 inches of clearance to provide safety when stopped.
A good bicycle frame ensures a good and healthy fit for the rider. Learn how to choose the bicycle frame for you in this free video clip.

How to Choose a Mountain Bike Frame
Overview
Cyclists ride mountain bikes along rocky mountain trails or other tough terrain. To ensure your bike can withstand the obstacles you'll face on these trails, choose a bike that's specially designed for off-road cycling. The right mountain bike will not only keep you safe, but will also make your ride more comfortable and enjoyable. To choose the best frame for your bike, focus on proper sizing and fit as well as budget and riding style.

Step 1
Stand against a wall with your feet roughly 6 inches apart. Use a tape measure to measure the length of your inseam in centimeters. The inseam includes the distance between the bottom of your feet and your crotch. Repeat two to three times to ensure your measurements are accurate.

Step 2
Multiply your inseam length by 0.67 to determine the seat tube length of your road bike. For example, if your inseam is 85 cm, your seat tube length for a road bike is 57 cm. The seat tube length represents the overall height of the frame, from the bottom of the seat support bar to the base of the seat.

Step 3
Subtract 10 to 12 cm from this seat tube length to find the correct length for your mountain bike. If your recommended seat tube length on your road bike is 57 cm, you would need a mountain bike seat tube ranging from 45 to 47 cm.

Step 4
Try different bikes to find the top tube length that best fits your body. The top tube length is the horizontal distance from the seat to the handlebars. While there is no easy formula for calculating this distance, you can find your perfect fit through trial and error. Sit on bikes of different sizes and grasp the handlebars. Your elbows should bend at a 65 to 70 degree angle when the length is correct. If your arms are straight, the tube is too long. If they are bent too much, you need a bike with a longer top tube.

Step 5
Choose your frame based on your preferred riding style. When buying a mountain bike frame, you have a choice between front suspension, or "hardtail" frames, or dual-suspension models. The suspension is built right into the frame itself and can have a big impact on the weight and performance of the bike. Hardtail models weigh less and require less maintenance, while dual-suspension models provide a more comfortable ride, particularly at high speeds or over rocks and bumps.

Step 6
Pick the frame material based on your budget. According to Mountain Bike Skills, standard steel frames are the most affordable, but also tend to be the heaviest, which may slow you down. Chrome alloys cost more but greatly reduce the weight of the bike. Aluminum and titanium provide high strength and weigh very little, but also have the highest price tag.

Step 7
Take a test ride. Once you've chosen your frame, have the shop assemble the rest of the frame so you can test the bike. Most shops will be happy to help you troubleshoot the bike design and components if something doesn't feel quite right.

Video By: LIVESTRONG.COM

For the past 7 months, the Bike198 crew has been ripping up the Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon 160mm travel mountain bike around the southeast on trails ranging from cross country to light free ride. This sub 30 pound AM killer from Specialized was redesigned for the 2010 model year and brought many of the previous requests of Enduro owners to the trail. Let’s take a look at the changes and how the Enduro SL Pro Carbon performed when rubber hit dirt.

Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon

The Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon represents the near top of the line for Specialized. With the S-Works planted up top and two lower aluminum based models below (Expert and Comp), the $5,500 complete bike features a carbon front triangle, top end components and the latest from Specialized in suspension. The previous Enduro saw a more traditional rocker design with the 160mm dual crown Specialized fork. In 2010, Specialized dropped the dual crown (a great move on their part) and went to the FSR linkage you see in these pictures. The idea…make the bike light enough to take on all day mountain rides but capable enough when gravity set in to appeal to the more technical, fast downhill crowd.

From Specialized.com:
Where XC and DH collide, you’ll find the lightweight Enduro SL—the most capable All Mountain bike that lets you climb without crying and rail in the technical terrain. If you want to ride the whole mountain and really own it, the Enduro’s six-inch travel frame, adjustable travel fork, position-sensitive rear shock and remote-adjust seatpost give you the skills to get the job done (though you’ll need a little talent on your own).

Component and Frame Highlights:
• Specialized Command Post 3-position adjustable-height seatpost with remote lever for on-the-fly changes to riding stance.
• Shimano XT 2-piece crankset with Gamut 22/36 shift guide for a stiff, durable and efficient power transfer from your legs to the rear wheel.
• New for 2010 Specialized Enduro FACT IS-constructed 10m carbon frame with M5 alloy rear triangle is the centerpiece of an all-new 160mm travel design with sealed cartridge bearing pivots, ISCG mount and replaceable derailleur hanger.
• Specialized E160TA fork with carbon steerer/crown assembly and Maxle Lite thru-axle delivers 160-135mm adjustable travel with external rebound/compression to devour singletrack with surgical accuracy.
• Custom Fox RP23 rear shock features position-sensitve Boost Valve damping for better bottom-out control, plus 3-position ProPedal adjustment for comprehensive tunability on climbs and descents.
• SRAM X.0 an X.9 Shifting
• Specialized Roval Traverse AL Wheelset
• Avid Elixir CR SL Brakes (203mm front and 185mm rear)
• 66.5 degree head tube angle
• 69.5 degree seat tube angle
• Bike Weight As Tested: 29.42 lbs.

At sub 30 pounds fully built, the Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon represents a growing trend in AM mountain bikes hitting the lighter end of the spectrum.

Hitting The Trail: Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon
The Enduro SL Pro Carbon is a unique bike. When Specialized set out to design the new Enduro, they really strived to bring out the downhill abilities that riders in this category love, while realizing they were going to give up some on the climbing end. With the slack 66.5 degree head tube angle on the Enduro, you get the long wheelbase, stable ride that you come to expect out of this travel range and higher, but you also get the lightweight maneuverability of lighter rigs.

Initial Setup: Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon
The initial setup process on the Enduro is just as easy as any other mountain bike. With an adjustable seat post from Specialized as a standard part in the build (Gravity Dropper pictured in some pictures), you can set the seat height and forget about it throughout the ride. On the non-drive side of the rocker, there is a sag indicator set at 25% and 33% to make pressure adjustments on the rear shock an easy process. To get to the 25% sag range, I found that I had to run higher pressures than I am used to on a RP23. At 185 lbs. riding weight, I was running 220 psi in the rear. For big mountain days, I lowered that down to 200-210 psi to get into the 33% sag range.

The outer shell of the main frame carbon is durable and holds up against rock hits, but you will want to use 3M tape or some other frame protectant on all contact points as scratches from cable rub show up pretty easily on the dull gray finish.

Climbing and Flats: The Long Haul
The Enduro is really most comfortable with long, technical ascents that are not a race to the top. With the slacker angles than you find on most 160mm frames, you end up sitting more back and upright which gives you a ton of traction at the sacrifice of climbing efficiency. I found that the super plush rear end of the Enduro really needed ProPedal engaged for smoother/rolling climbing, but if you are in rooty, rocky, technical climbing situations, the increased traction keeps the rear end planted without much pedal induced bob (uncontrollable suspension movement while pedaling). You sit low in the travel, but the bike stays controlled. Standing up and hammering isn’t really an option as weighting the rear end like that really starts to make it sink while climbing.

Your best bet, pick a little bit easier gear and get into a rhythm. You are not going to be the first rider to crest the peak, but you are going to want to be the first one headed down. The good news…while this bike is not a lightning climber, you do get the added benefit of it being pretty light so you are not pushing the bike like you would a typical 35-36 pound rig. Over the course of a long day in the saddle, that decreased weight does make a difference.

Over rolling terrain and flats, the Enduro is a little bit slower than most 160mm travel frames. With the plush suspension setup and slack layout, the Enduro is not the quickest accelerator without the aid of gravity to push you forward, so just like with climbing…just settle into a rhythm.

Downhill: Ready to open it up?
When talking with the Specialized engineers about the new Enduro, they specifically stated that they knew climbing efficiency was going to suffer some because they really wanted to open this bike up when gravity took over. When you get the Enduro pointed down, you get a chance to see exactly what those engineers had in mind.

The FSR suspension setup on the Enduro is SUPER plush. With a very linear feeling throughout the stroke, the rear end of the Enduro stays planted over big rocks and trail obstacles to the point that you feel like you can run over just about anything. The aluminum rear end mated to the carbon front is very stiff and holds a line incredibly well with the longer wheelbase and slack angles.
When navigating really tight switchbacks and turns, you do have to maneuver the bike a little bit harder than some other 160mm travel frames, but when things really open up…the bike just flat out flies. Every time I hit the brakes, you could almost feel the bike cringe and scream “No!” as it is best at high speed chop. Just let go of the brake levers and let her loose…you’ll be glad you did. It even got to the point that some of the guys riding behind me said, “I could tell when you just let go of the brakes. You were gone.”
Over bigger drops, jumps and stunts, the Enduro is very stable and more capable than most of the 160mm travel frames I have ridden. In certain cases, it actually feels like it has more travel than quoted with a bottomless feel over longer technical runs. The lightweight construction makes pickup and drop moves a lot easier if quick adjustments need to be made.

Under smooth, fast descents, the slow accelerating characteristics that you see on the flats and climbs is completely gone. Out of the saddle hammering when you have the front end pointed down is fast and responsive. I actually found myself manualing out of tight turns as the bike just wants to lung forward when the hammer is dropped. The 36T front 2×9 setup was perfect for accelerating hard out of turns and slow technical sections and I found it is probably the perfect 2×9 setup for 160mm travel rigs.

Overall Thoughts: Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon
The Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon is one of those bikes that I do not want to send back. The changes Specialized made to this bike for 2010 are dead on with my personal riding style which includes long days in the saddle where climbing is just a means to and end…the trip back down. If you are a rider that is looking for an extremely capable downhill machine that will get you to the top of the hill without a shuttle, the Specialized Enduro is a great fit. The sub 30 pound weight is going to catch the eyes of some 5.5″ travel mountain bikers, but the reality is the weight loss is just to not tire out riders whose real joy comes from not keeping up with the fast climbers…but killing it on technical terrain on the way down.
Simply put…the Specialized Enduro is just a blast to ride.

Positives: Specialized Enduro SL Pro Carbon
• Super plush, linear suspension perfect for rough, technical descents
• Long wheelbase and slack angles create a stable and capable downhiller (more than typical 160mm travel rigs)
• Lightweight construction saves energy on the climbs
• Stiff, high quality build
• An extremely capable and versatile bike for big mountain riders
• Strong component group package with single crown fork

Negatives: Specialized Enduro Pro Carbon
• Not the fastest climber out of the 160mm mountain bikes
• Lightweight can be misleading to some potential buyers that should look at the Stumpjumper FSR
• Pricey: Other models available but $5,500 may be too much for a lot of riders
• Love/Hate looks: Some love the new frame design while others don’t. Personal preference.

If you are a rider that loves long climbs to long, fast descents…head to your local Specialized dealer and check out the Enduro. It should be on your short list of options.

If your in the market for Specialized Enduro Pro Carbon Mountain Bike or other mountain bike bargains check out the bikes below.

US Auctions Australian Auctions Austrian Auctions Belgian Auctions Canadian Auctions French Auctions German Auctions Irish Auctions Italian Auctions Dutch Auctions Spanish Auctions Swiss Auctions GB Auctions

Best Match Items Ending First Newly-Listed Items First Price + Shipping: Lowest First Price + Shipping: Highest First

2011 Used M Specialized S Works Carbon Enduro Mountain Bike Sram XX X0 Bicycle
	$3,400.00 End Date: Monday Mar-5-2012 9:40:16 PST Buy It Now for only: $3,400.00 Buy It Now

2008 SPECIALIZED ENDURO SL MED MOUNTAIN BIKE FUTURE SHOCK FORK S TUNE NEVEGALS
	$995.00 End Date: Tuesday Feb-7-2012 9:29:18 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,125.00 Buy It Now | Bid now

2007 Specialized Enduro Pro
	$1,700.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 11:29:39 PST Bid now

Specialized enduro pro mountain bike full suspension L 2004
	$685.00 End Date: Sunday Feb-5-2012 18:46:31 PST Buy It Now for only: $685.00 Buy It Now

2009 Specialized Enduro Expert Sl
	$1,450.00 End Date: Wednesday Feb-8-2012 22:44:12 PST Buy It Now for only: $1,600.00 Buy It Now | Bid now

2011 SPECIALIZED ENDURO EXPERT SL
	$2,650.00 End Date: Thursday Feb-9-2012 15:22:30 PST Buy It Now for only: $2,650.00 Buy It Now

Specialized enduro expert sl
	$1,600.00 End Date: Thursday Feb-9-2012 13:07:48 PST Bid now

Specialized Enduro SL Pro Frame Fork Front wheel with Extras
	$199.99 End Date: Thursday Feb-9-2012 20:07:09 PST Bid now

« Previous12Next »

Mountain Bike Frame Sizes -- powered by eHow.com

There are some things that you need to consider when you buy a mountain bike. You need to learn more about mountain bikes so that you can make the best decision for you.
Purchasing a mountain bike can be very overwhelming and can consume quite a bit of your extra time if you are not prepared. This article contains some hints that will help to make the process of buying a mountain bike less frustrating.

Your Mountain Bike Budget
You can spend thousands of dollars on a mountain bike if you want to, but for most of us, we have to set a budget so that we do not overspend. To do this, you need to determine how much that you can afford to spend and then stick with that budgeted amount. You will get much better service and a better bike if you purchase from a bike shop, rather than a mass-merchandiser like Wal-Mart. If you stick you’re your budget, then you will be much happier with your purchase in the long run.

What Style Of Bike?
Mountain bikes come in several different designs that correspond to the different terrains that you might be riding on and your particular riding style. You first need to determine where you will be riding your mountain bike the most. Are you going to be mountain cruising, smooth riding, cross-country racing, or doing lift accessed downhill riding? Determining this will enable to salesman at the bike shop to help you find the right bike for you and your needs.

Hard Tail or Full Suspension?
If your budget will allow it, you will want to choose a full suspension bike. The hard tail bike that comes without suspension in the rear will weigh less and allow you to get more efficiency from your pedaling, but a full suspension bike will be more comfortable and easier to control. This decision will be determined by your budget, the terrain that you will be riding on, and your particular style of riding.

Your Favorite Things
When you begin trying to compare mountain bikes using components, you will quickly find that it will be overwhelming. Determine what components are the ones that you cannot live without and then compare based on this to find the bike that meets your needs and your budget. In this way, you will not be paying for a lot of components that you do not feel are important.

Watch For Seasonal Sales
You will find that mountain bike prices can go up and down quite a bit over the course of a year. The main time that mountain bikes are purchased is during the spring and summer. If you can wait until it grows colder during the fall and winter, then you can save quite a bit of money. Local bike shops may even offer incentives on other components if you purchase a mountain bike from them, rather than from a mass-merchandiser.

Take a Test Ride
Test ride the bikes the fit your budget and your particular riding style to find the bike that has the right fit for you. You will know when a bike feels right. The more bikes that you test out, the easier it will be to make this decision.

Research, Research, Research
Reading mountain bike reviews and other product reviews will help you to learn more about your choices and the pros and cons of them. Reading mountain bike reviews that are written by other owners will help you to determine the right bike for you and your needs. Researching is the best way to make the most of your mountain bike budget.

Every job can be made harder without the correct tools to do the job. Bicycle maintenance requires several specialized tools that will make your life much easier on and off the trail.

One thing to keep in mind: In my early days of mountain bike maintenance, I didn’t go out and buy the most expensive tools I could find. I bought the store brand tools until I saved up enough to get some more expensive versions from Park or Pedros. This comes in handy later in your mountain bike maintenance career because you can use your “first set” as a mobile tool set that stays in a small tool box.

#1 – Bike Repair Stand
Mountain bikes…for the most part…are very awkward to work on. In many cases, you have to have the wheels off or you need the bike up at shoulder level to get the work done easily. This is where the bike stand comes into play. A bike stand will hold your mountain bike so that it is easily accessible for any repair or build. Normally, you hold your frame by the seat post with the clamp that is at the top of the stand. This allows you to move the bike around as you work. I bike stand will make life much easier as you become more proficient at your bicycle maintenance.
Over the years, I have used the Ultimate stands because I feel that they are more stable. Park Tools also makes a great stand that a lot of riders like.

#2 – Floor Pump
You will not be able to live life as a mountain biker without a good floor pump with a properly working pressure gauge. You will start to take tires on and off (some people more than others) and tire pressure is crucial to how the bike rides. A good floor pump will end up going with you everywhere.
Find a pump that you are comfortable with and one that you can read the air pressure gauge easily. Almost all floor pumps go to much higher pressures than you will ever use, so make sure you can see the pressure that you use easily.

#3 – Y Hex Wrench
This should be one of the first tools you ever own as a mountain bike maintenance beginner. This Y shaped he wrench contains three of the most common sizes found on mountain bikes today (4mm, 5mm and 6mm). I keep several of these laying around and even one in my pack while riding. It is a nice, convenient way to have the 3 most common sized hex wrenches at your disposal.

#4 – Hex Wrench Set
The Y Hex Wrench will get you through a lot of repairs and tunes, but nothing replaces a good set of hex wrenches. The Y Wrench can actually get in the way in tight situations, so have a good set of hex wrenches laying around.
Almost all of the bolts on your bike will be hex heads.

#5 – Multi-Tool
You should already have one of these in your pack when you ride, but this is a good reminder. A multi-tool is a must have for any mountain biker. It can keep you riding on the trail or provide you with a tool you just can’t seem to find on those bike maintenance days. With a wide range of hex heads, screwdrivers and most of the time…a chain tool, this compact set is a perfect compliment to any tool collection.

#6 – Chain Tool
Most multi-tool’s come with a chain tool, but it is much easier to use a dedicated chain tool when possible. This cheap little tool will save you time and fingers while you are working at repairing that chain in the stand.

#7 – Chain Whip
This funny looking tool is specific to rear cassettes on any bike. It will hold your cassette still to allow you to remove the lock ring from the cassette to do drive train maintenance and replacement. Replacing drive train parts is one area that you should seriously consider doing yourself, and the tools associated with these change outs are a must have.

#8 – Lock Ring Removal Tool
The Lock Ring Removal Tool and the Chain Whip go hand in hand. The lock ring on your cassette that tightens the cassette down onto the hub body requires a specialized tool due to its unique pattern. You use this tool along with the chain whip to remove your cassette from the rear hub.

#9 – Cable Cutters
A good set of cable cutters will make your life much easier when replacing housing or cables on your mountain bike. Can you do this with a non-specialized tool? Yes…but you will not be as efficient and your cuts will not be as clean. A nice side effect of a good cable cutter is the ability to round out the housing after you are finished with the cut. A good set of cable cutters also insures a straight and accurate cut on cable. This will make feeding the cable through the housing much easier.

#10 – Bottom Bracket Tool
Almost every mountain bike on the market today comes with external bottom brackets (x-type). These bottom brackets house the bearings external to the frames bottom bracket shell. This makes them easy to remove and replace. The bottom bracket bearings are a wear item on your mountain bike. They also require this specialized tool for removal and installation. You will scratch the bottom bracket shell when using this tool…that is normal.

#11 – Pedal Wrench
A great pedal wrench was always one of those tools that I was certain I didn’t need. Couldn’t you just use some other wrench to remove the pedals? Yes…but it is a pain! The nice advantage of a pedal wrench is its thin profile. This allows you to get the pedals off easily and quickly without any real effort. The handle is also much longer than a conventional wrench to give you more leverage and get your hands farther away from the bike to make removal and installation easier.

#12 – Chain Ring Nut Wrench
Chain rings are another wear item on your mountain bike. This little wrench keeps the rear of the chain rings bolts still while you unscrew the hex side of the bolt. Its low profile allows you to get in behind the rings for easy installation and removal.

#13 – Tire Levers
This seems like an easy assumption, but choosing the right tire levers can mean the difference between easily installed tires and bloody knuckles. Pick out a set of STRONG tire levers. I use the Maxxis levers and they have worked perfectly. A previous set of Park’s caused me a lot of issues…they just were not wide or strong enough.

#14 – Adjustable Wrench
An adjustable wrench will help you use other tools in your mountain bike maintenance arsonal like the lock nut removal tool. It is always a good idea to have one of these laying around at all times.

#15 – T-25 Torx Wrench
The bolts that secure the rotors on your mountain bike are held in with T-30 Torx heads. Many brakes actually come with one of these wrenches, so keep it handy and try not to lose it. It will come in handy when you are swapping out rotors or wheels. Be careful not to strip out these bolts during removal and installation.

#16 – Screwdrivers
You will need medium sized flat blade and phillips head screw drivers throughout your bike maintenance career. You will use these to do routine maintenance tasks like derailleur adjustment, so keep one set around the bike maintenance area at all times.

#17 – Shock Pump
This specialized pump will control the air pressure in your suspension components. Almost all full suspension mountain bikes come with air suspension. Most bikes and components provide you with one of these pumps with purchase, so keep it in a safe place. I would also recommend carrying one of these with you on the trail.

Conclusion
So there you have it! Your 17 must have tools for any bike maintenance wrencher! Start building up your collection now so when we start to go over each area of the bike…you are ready. Try to shop around for the deals on tools because at any point in time…someone is having a sale.

Spend The Money Where It Matters
I know that carbon cage looks cool as hell on your rig, but for a 1/3 of the price…you can step down to XT or X.9 and get the same performance. You will not be shaving precious grams or have the bling to show off at the trailhead, but you will be able to save that money and spend it on more component parts that will actually affect how your bike performs on the trail. I can’t tell you how many mountain bikes I have seen with $250.00 rear derailleurs and $100.00 wheelsets. It just doesn’t make sense.
I tend to make the biggest investments on wheels and suspension forks. The rest of my builds get the run of the mill XT or X.9 components.

Your Friend Is Wrong
9 times out of 10, your buddy that is telling you to buy his bike because it is the best thing he has ever thrown a leg over is wrong. No one can tell you what the best mountain bike is for you. If his bike was the best thing since sliced bread and everyone should have one…then there would only be that model of mountain bike on the market. All of our body types, riding styles and trail needs are different. Do not let someone talk you into buying something without riding it first to see if it is exactly what you need. It is not their cash they are shelling out…it is yours.

Ideally, you want to test ride as many bikes as you possibly can to find out what works best in your situation. Read reviews, try it out…talk to as many mountain bikers as you can and then formulate your own decisions based on fact. Try not to let this become an emotional, off the cuff buy.

Think About The Resale
Boutique bikes are easier to sell as frame only and big box bikes (Trek, Specialized, Gary Fisher, etc.) are easier to resell as complete bikes. It is pretty hard to unload a big box bike as frame only and get any resemblance of a quality resell price out of it. This is something to keep in mind as you look at purchasing complete mountain bikes or just a mountain bike frame. If you are selling a Trek or Specialized mountain bike, it does not have to have all of the original components on it, but it is going to resell much easier as a complete build as that target buyer is in the market for a complete mountain bike.

Better Deals Are Found In The Off-Season
You are going to find better prices and deals in the off-season as you have more buying power because retail is slow. The same goes for picking up used parts and mountain bikes. If you are looking to save some money or you are on a tight budget, waiting until the colder months may be a great option. There will be less to choose from in the used market, but the prices are generally lower.